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  Terry de Gunzberg

The Shock of the New

29 June 2013

In every generation the world of architecture spawns a new talent and a new vision. Some, like Corbusier or the Bauhaus, are true radicals whose legacy, envisioning a new way of creating a structure, outlives them. We have just witnessed the birth of a new talent in perfume. Terry de Gunzberg may be new to the art of perfumery, but although she has not abandoned the traditional building materials of fragrance - she still uses a blend of the best natural and synthetic ingredients - Terry's new vision is more about lines-of-sight, style, modernity and elegance, of... ergonomics. In other words, the delight found in Terry's creations is their radical but simple "structure".

Like the perfumer Jean Claude Ellena who pioneered this style before her, Terry has stripped away all unnecessary embellishment with the aim of allowing the true nature of the ingredients to reveal themselves; something that can only be done when the bare bones themselves have beauty of form. Like architecture, ornamentation and embellishment is so often used to conceal sub-standard construction, so the nakedness can only be successful using the highest quality building materials.

Terry says she has been inspired by Serge Lutens (who like her is a protégé of Yves St Laurent, and whose maverick individualism has made him, quite delightfully, into the Antoni Gaudi of perfumery) not only because of his strength of vision, but his uncompromisingly novel use of his materials. Like Serge, Terry is not a perfumer - just as the architect is rarely the joiner or bricklayer - she is, like Serge, simply the visionary, and her vision was to take luxury, sophistication, ostentation in a new direction with the emphasis on the simple beauty of the best and often most expensive natural ingredients. Her fragrances, never stark, lacking in depth or without harmony, are instead clean, modern, uncluttered and elegant. And above all, they are truly beautiful.

You can view Terry de Gunzberg's new range here.

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What the paper's say

Since discovering Woodforde & Co in Sidmouth, I know where to go to find my perfect perfume. This charming emporium is located in Church Street and is run by husband and wife, Jon and Jane Brewer, both of whom have an encyclopaedic knowledge and an enthusiastic passion for perfumery.

Devon Today